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Below are 10 examples of incorrect information that I have received in my 15 years of keeping reptiles.

1. Snakes need to eat live food

I have not had a single captive bred snake refuse to eat pre-killed rodents.  My older snakes have eaten pre-killed mice every week for over a decade without any health problems.

2. Mealworms Cause Gut Impactions

The logic behind this myth is that mealworms have a hard exo-skeleton that cannot be digested by insectivorous lizards, or that the mealworms can eat their way out of the lizard. I have fed Bearded Dragons, Leopard Geckos, Axolotls and African Clawed Frogs on a diet of almost 100% mealworms for years and never had the above problems.

3. Dwarf Caimans

Buyer: How big do these Caimans get?

Seller: The Caimans are five years old and will not get any bigger

Fact: No Caiman or Crocodilian species is adult size at 60cm.

4. A Bite From That Viper Isn’t That Serious

Buyer: How dangerous is a bite from the White Lip Tree Viper you are selling?

Seller: Oh its just some pain, swelling and some local tissue damage, nothing a trip to the ER can’t cure.

Fact: Medical problems associated with a venomous snake bite can range from allergic reactions, blood clotting problems, amputated fingers, secondary infection, loss of function of hands,  nerve damage and possibly death.  No doctor can cure a snake bite without antivenom which is not available for most exotic venomous snakes.

5. Snakes have to be kept on Newspaper

I have kept my snakes on many different substrates ranging from astroturf, pine shavings, kenaf, newspaper and corn cob. In the wild snakes ingest substrate when feeding and do not die. In captivity ingestion of substrate can be kept to a minimum by using feeding tongs and making sure food is dry as substrate will stick to wet rodents. Snakes cannot dry out from a substrate, do snakes living in deserts dry out? As long as a water bowl is provided your Corn Snake will live happily on a substrate of aspen shavings or corn cob. Click Here for an article on snake substrates you should avoid

6. The More Species I Keep The More I Know

Many reptile keepers including myself have kept multiple reptile species successfully. A reptile enthusiast who keeps multiple species and has dozens of reptiles that are unhealthy and improperly housed does not make him/her more knowledgeable than the keeper who has only a few reptiles in excellent health.

7.  Keeping Venomous Snakes is the Next Step in Snake Keeping

Keeping venomous snakes such as Copperheads or White Lip Tree Vipers is only challenging because they can cause you physical harm if you are careless not because of their difficult captive care. Some really cool harmless snakes that are a real challenge to keep include: Tentacled Water Snakes, Mexican Burrowing Snakes, Calabar Ground Python, Mandarin Rat Snakes and many more.

8. Selling Unsuitable Reptiles to New Reptile Keepers

As reptile pet store owners we should not sell a Green Iguana to a first time lizard keeper or a Reticulated Python to a novice snake keeper. Never sell large constrictors or Monitor Lizards as a children’s pet. I do not believe venomous snakes should be sold to the general public and most certainly not to children or teenagers. Never sell reptiles which are illegal to own and always inform the buyer if a permit is needed.

9.  Saving Money Can Cost You Money

Never skimp on essentials such as UVB Lights, Calcium Supplements and proper food as this will result in a sick or dead reptile a few months after purchase. There is no point in buying a huge tub of calcium with no brand behind it when you have a single Bearded Dragon. Rather buy a calcium supplement which is made by a well known manufacturer and is produced just for reptiles.

10. Avoiding the Vet

With more and more reptiles being kept as pets more and more vets are specializing in reptile medical care. Rather see a reptile vet than try and treat the reptile yourself. I have a policy that what a qualified reptile vet advises trumps any advice I have given you in regards to the health care of your reptile. There is a reason why vets study for nearly ten years or more, so if in doubt take your reptile to a vet.

Species, Size and Temperament

There are two recognised species of Anaconda both from tropical South America. The Green Anaconda is the worlds heaviest snake species and can get to over 6m in length. The second species the Yellow Anaconda grows to around 3m in length. Both snakes are bulky and very powerful as adults. Both species are extremely aggressive and most individuals are unlikely to calm down enough to allow safe handling.

Be Prepared for Handling an Aggressive Anaconda

When buying a baby Anaconda be prepared that the 40cm neonate that strikes at every opportunity will likely grow into a 2-3m long adult that will strike at every opportunity. Anacondas are aggressive by nature and frequent handling does not always result in a tame Anaconda. Do not buy a baby Anaconda if you are unable to handle a large aggressive snake in the future.

Why Anacondas Bite?

Anacondas bite as a defense against predators or intruders into there habitat. As Anacondas are not domesticated animals they view their owners as either predators or intruders, rather than a loving caring companion. This results in the Anaconda striking rather than seeking affection. Anacondas will also bite if they mistake your hand for food. Always use tongs when feeding and wash hands after touching food items.

How to Avoid Being Bitten by my Anaconda?

Buy an Anaconda that appears calm. Attempt to handle your baby Anaconda to tame it ( this may not work). Do not attempt to handle your Anaconda after touching food items. Do not startle your Anaconda by making sudden movements while trying to touch it or pick it up. Try and avoid picking up the Anaconda from above. Avoid touching the Anacondas head when handling ( most snake dislike their heads being touched). Always make sure you know where the Anaconda is before you open the cage. Use long tongs when feeding your snake.

How to Handle an Anaconda

A tame Anaconda can be handled as you would any tame snake. Use gloves when handling aggressive Anacondas, pick them up and restrain them by holding the head. Use a large snake hook to handle larger Anacondas, use the hook to maneuver the snake into a box or a cloth bag. Never put an adult Anaconda around your neck even if it is tame. Large aggressive Yellow Anacondas may require an extra person to help with handling. A large Adult Green Anaconda will need about three people to safely remove it from its cage.

Cage Design

Design a cage for you Anaconda which is large enough for you to easily remove the snake. Do not add too many cage decorations as this may make it difficult to locate the Anaconda and make it easier for the snake to strike from a hidden position. The cage should be strongly built and be escape proof. Keep Anacondas separately as it is safer to deal with one large snake at a time.

First Aid

Bites from small Anacondas will need no more than a plaster, some antiseptic and some antibacterial cream. Bites from adult Anaconda may require stitches as well as antibacterial cream. Antibiotics may be prescribed in very deep bites.

Why Would I Want an Anaconda?

Despite being aggressive Anacondas make interesting and attractive display snakes. Anacondas feed well and are an easy tropical snake to keep. Snake keepers that have kept large constrictors before will find Anacondas a nice addition to their collection.

Below is how to recognise mites in Boa Constrictors

Exessive Soaking

If your Boa Constrictor spends a lot of time in its water bowl it may have mites. If you see small black flecks in the water bowl, these are dead mites that have fallen off the Boa Constrictor while it was soaking in its water bowl.

Rubbing

Boa Constrictors with mites often rub themselves on cage decorations

Bugs in the Substrate

If you see small insects in the substrate they could be mites. Most substrates sold are sterile and do not have insects in them.

Sliver Dust

Boa Constrictors with severe mite infections will have silver dust on them. This silver dust is mite droppings and is an indication that a large numbers of mites living in your Boa Constrictors cage.

Mites on the Boa Constrictor

The easiest place to find mites is on your Boa Constrictors head. Mites often bunch up around a Boa Constrictors eyes and are easy too see on the lighter skin on the bottom jaw. Mites can be found on your Boa Constrictors back, sides, belly and around the vent.

Shedding Problems

Boa constrictors with mites can have shedding problems. Mites can be found on shed skin that is left in the cage.

The following factors effect the method and type of heating product your reptile needs.

Natural Habitat

A Corn Snake that originates from the pine forests of North America can be kept at a lower a temperature than a Boa Constrictor that originates from tropical rain forests of South America. Desert reptiles such as Bearded dragons or Uromastyx need to be kept at significantly higher temperatures than species that live in temperate forests. Most reptiles experience a drop in temperature at night, this varies between habitat types and should be researched.

Diurnal vs Nocturnal

Reptiles which are active during the day require a heat source which gives of bright light such as a daylight basking lamp. This provides a basking spot which mimics the heat and light of the sun. If you heat your Bearded Dragon with a heat pad without any light source they will become sick very quickly. Heating nocturnal species with a bright light can stress them out. It is best to heat nocturnal species with an infrared basking lamp or heat pad. The majority of snakes kept as pets are nocturnal and a heat pad will provide the necessary heat for most species of snake.

Cold Tolerance

Certain reptiles tolerate cold better than others. Leopard Geckos are  cold tolerant and will survive a night time drop or a few hours without heat during a power cut. American Garter Snakes are also very cold tolerant and can survive very cold temperatures. Iguanas and Madagascan day geckos do not tolerate drops in temperature for even a few hours. Cold tolerant species require lower wattage heaters, while non cold tolerant species require higher wattage heaters.

Over Heating

It is very easy to over heat your reptiles if you leave the heaters on during warm weather. Be careful as over heating can kill your reptiles.

Size of the Cage

Large cages will require higher wattage heaters such as 150 watt light bulbs or ceramic heat emitters.  High wattage light bulbs or ceramic heat emitters  will heat a small cage to extremely high temperatures in a very short period of time.

Where the owner lives

Most snakes and lizards do not require heating during the summer in South Africa. I live in Johannesburg and my Rat snake, King Snake, Leopard Gecko, Boa Constrictor heaters are  turned on during the winter and turned off in summer.  Should there be cold spell during summer the heaters are turned on. In summer my Bearded Dragon’s heater is only turned on for a few hours per day.

Always use a thermometer

Always monitor the temperature of your reptiles cage using a digital thermometer.

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Wild Bearded Dragons would eat insects and small vertebrates which are common in the arid desert regions that they inhabit. Green leafy vegetables are not the natural plant life in an arid desert. Bearded Dragons  will eat greens in captivity. I do not feed my Bearded Dragon greens and he is a perfectly healthy six year old. See below for types of food.

Crickets

Crickets make a good staple diet and pin head crickets are perfect for hatchling  Bearded Dragons. Crickets come in several sizes from pin head to large adults. Crickets are usually purchased in plastic tubs, with egg carton as a hiding spot. Crickets do not last long in these tubs and begin to smell within a few days. Crickets have to be gut loaded before being fed to your Bearded Dragon. Crickets are noisy and the constant chirping drives me made. Crickets will hide in basking logs and under the substrate out of reach from your Bearded Dragon. Feed Adult Bearded Dragons crickets with feeding forceps’s. Four large crickets twice a week is fine for an adult Bearded Dragons. Hatchlings and juveniles can be fed more frequently.

Giant Mealworms

Giant mealworms make a good food for adult Bearded Dragons. Feed these insects sparingly as they are high in protein and feeding too many will result in an obese dragon. Two to three giant mealworms twice a week is plenty for an adult Bearded Dragon.

Normal Mealworms

I use these insects as the staple diet for both my Bearded Dragon and Leopard Gecko. Avoid feeding mealworms to hatchling Bearded Dragons, as they are too small to eat them. I feed  mealworms to my adult dragon on a twice weekly basis, giving about fifteen to twenty worms a week. In my experience there is no truth to claims that feeding mealworms causes gut impactions,due to their thick exoskeletons. The people making this claim will happily feed their Bearded Dragons on Madagascan Giant Hissing Cockroaches which, are the insect equivalent of a small tank and have a very thick exoskeleton.

Silkworms

Silkworms make a good low fat food. They are a bit expensive and finding mulberry leaves for them to eat can be difficult. Not all pet shops stock silkworms on a regular basis. Purchase smaller silkworms as they are further away from pupating. Feed a few silkworms to your Bearded Dragon twice a week.

Roaches

Cockroaches make a good diet for you Bearded Dragon and can be used as an alternative to crickets. Feed your bearded dragon four roaches twice a week.

Pellets

Bearded Dragon pellets make a good addition to your dragons diet. Pellets should not be fed exclusively, but as part of a balanced diet.

Greens

Your Bearded Dragon can be given dark leafy greens on occasion. Greens are useful for dragons which are overweight.

I have written this article to educate reptile keepers, not to condone the keeping of Caimans.

What is a Caiman?

Caimans are crocodilians native to central and South America. They are related to Alligators. There are several species of Caiman  including: The Black Caiman, Spectacled Caiman, Dwarf Caiman and Smooth Fronted Caiman. They range in size from over 2m in the case of Black Caimans to 1.5 meters for Dwarf Caimans.

What Species of Caiman is Offered For Sale?

The hatchling Caimans I have seen for sale at reptile expos all look like Spectacled Caimans. Spectacled Caimans are the most common species of Caiman available for export from South America and the most popular species of Caiman kept in captivity.

How Big Will My Caiman Get?

So you have just spent several thousand rand on a Caiman that is around 25cm in lenght and looks really cute. In several years time this same Caiman will be around 2m in length and will weigh over 100kg.

Are Caimans Difficult to Handle?

This is depended on size. A hatchling Caiman has very sharp teeth and the head and tail must be restrained at all times. As your Caiman approaches a meter it will become difficult if not dangerous to handle. A meter long Caiman has the capability of biting its owners hand off. Adults are too big for one person to safely handle. Special tools and techniques are required to remove an adult Caiman from its cage.

What Type of Cage do Caimans Need?

Hatchling Caimans and small juveniles can be kept in modified glass aquariums. Larger juveniles and adults need to be kept in large greenhouses with a pool and land area. Greenhouses are needed as Caimans come from tropical South America where temperatures rarely drop below 25 degrees Celsius.

What do Caimans Eat?

Hatchling Caimans and small juveniles can be fed on goldfish, mice and chunks of meat. Adults Caimans require rabbits, chickens, large fish and chunks of meat. Caimans will eat two to three times a week and are expensive to feed.

How Often Do I Clean My Caiman’s Cage?

Caimans need to be cleaned often as aquarium filters are not designed for the amount of waste produced by these reptiles. Adult Caiman enclosures should have a very efficient filtration system. You should design the filtration system so that you can access the filter from outside the Caiman enclosure. Dirty water will make you Caiman sick.

Are Caimans Dangerous?

The short answer to this question is yes. An adult Caiman is a large, often aggressive animal. If an Adult Caiman bites your arm and clamps its jaws shut the pressure you will feel will be like having your arm trapped under a small car. You will not be able to open the Caiman’s jaws yourself. An adult Caiman is capable of tearing a human arm off and can kill a human being.

Here is a list of King snake Species and how to feed them.

Californian King Snake

Californian King Snakes eat a variety of food in the wild including lizards, snakes, rodents, frogs and birds. In captivity they will thrive on a diet of pre-killed mice. Hatchlings are not usually problem feeders and will eat a pinkie mouse three times a week if given the chance. Adults will eat two to three weaner mice or rat pups once a week. Californian King Snakes are aggressive feeders and soon learn that when the cage opens food comes in, so be careful when opening the cage to avoid being bitten. According to your pet Californian King Snake other snakes are food, so keep them separately.

Florida King Snake

Florida King Snakes are the biggest King Snake species and can easily reach 2m in length. These bulky snakes are powerful constrictors eat other snakes. A large Florida King Snake is able to kill and eat Rattlesnakes, Copperheads, Cottonmouths and any other venomous or non venomous snakes that share its habitat. In captivity Florida King Snakes will eat pre-killed rats and mice. Feed Hatchlings on pinkies once or twice a week. Feed adults several large mice once a week. Large adults can eat small rats.

Mexican Black King Snake

The Mexican Black King Snake is a smaller species reaching an average length of 1.2m. Feeding hatchlings is not usually a problem.  Hatchlings need to be fed pinkies once or twice a week.  Feed adults 2-3 weaner mice once a week. The Mexican Black King Snake eats snakes in the wild, so keep them separate from other snakes.

San Louis Pottosi King Snake

This is a small grey snake with red saddles from the desert regions of Mexico. This snakes diet consists of lizards in the wild and some hatchlings may refuse to eat pinkie mice. Rubbing the pinkie on a lizard will trick the snake into thinking it is eating its natural food. After a few scented meals the hatchling should start to eat unscented pinkies. To avoid this problem make sure the hatchling you want to buy is eating pinkies before you purchase it. Feed hatchlings once a week.  Adults will eat several fuzzies or a weaner mice once a week. These snakes do eat other snakes in the wild so keeping them separately is advisable

Grey Banded  King Snake

Feeding these attractive little snake can pose problems. Hatchlings often will not accept pinkies even lizard scented ones. These individuals may need to be fed on small geckos or skinks. My advice would be to purchase a Grey Banded King Snake that is around 6 months old. At this age it is almost certain that the snake is eating mice. Feed your adult snake several fuzzies or a small weaner mouse once a week. These snakes have cannibalistic tendencies and should be kept separately.

Tri – Coloured King Snakes

Tri-Coloured King Snake species include the Arizona Mountain King Snake and Californian Mountain King Snake. These snakes are small and eat lizards in the wild. Hatchlings will often refuse to eat pinkies even scented ones. Therefore it is best to purchase sub-adult specimens as they should be feeding on mice. Feed adults several fuzzies or a weaner mouse once a week. These snake come from cold areas and some individuals refuse to eat in winter because the instinct to hibernate kicks in. Feed snakes that do this twice a week in summer in order to avoid them losing weight in winter or reduce the cage temperatures in winter to allow them to hibernate. These snakes will eat smaller snakes and should be kept separately.

I have complied a checklist of important things people should think about before purchasing a pet snake or lizard

Research the reptile you want to keep

Make sure you know the adult size of your reptile

Make sure you can afford the correct supplies  for your reptile.  I calculated that at current prices the cost of  UVB lighting needed during a Bearded Dragons life time  would equal R3000.00. A hatchling Bearded Dragon currently cost R150.00

Are you prepared to feed your reptile insects and rodents?

Are people in your house fine with mice in the freezer or live insects in the house?

Rodents and feeder insects are expensive can you afford them?

Before  you buy a snake make 100% sure it is eating mice

Do you have the spare time needed to feed and clean your reptile?

Any reptile a pet shop is selling at a discount or giving away for free is more than likely sick

Do not support pet shops which keep reptiles in bad conditions

Reptiles live much longer than other pets a Corn Snake can live up to 20 years or more.

You will not make money if you sell your reptile unless it is a very rare species or the latest colour morph.

If you want an active pet get a tropical fish tank. Your Bearded Dragon will spend most of its time basking and your Corn Snake will remain in its hide box for the majority of the day.

You will have to find a vet that specializes in reptiles.

Please remember that reptiles do not make good pets for children.

Do not purchase large pythons and boas as a first snake

Do not purchase large monitor lizards or green iguanas as a first lizard

There are some very dangerous venomous snakes being sold. Please do not buy one of these snakes.

Private individuals cannot provide the care that an adult Caiman needs, so don’t purchase that cute hatchling

Make sure that you comply with all relevant laws and regulations

Finally consider adopting a reptile that has been abandoned.

Exotic Animal Rescue Centre

I have compiled a list of cage temperatures required by common pet reptiles. It also shows the best method to heat your reptile.

Bearded Dragons

Basking spot: 35-38 degrees Celsius

Ambient: 25 degrees Celsius

Night: 20 degrees Celsius

Heating method: Basking lamp, Ceramic heat emitter

Uromastyx

Basking spot: 40 degrees Celsius

Ambient: 25- 30 degrees Celsius

Night: 20-25 degrees Celsius

Heating method: High wattage basking lamp or Ceramic heat emitter.

Green Iguanas

Hot spot: 35 degrees Celsius

Ambient: 25-30 degrees Celsius

Night: 20 degrees Celsius

Heating method: Basking lamp or Ceramic heat emitter

Veiled Chameleon

Hot spot: 30 degrees Celsius

Ambient: 25 degrees Celsius

Night: 20-22 degrees Celsius

Heating method: Basking Lamp

Bosc’s Monitor

Hot spot: 35 degrees Celsius

Ambient: 25 -30 degrees Celsius

Night: 20-25 degrees Celsius

Heating method: basking lamp

Leopard Gecko

Hot spot: 25-30 degrees Celsius

Ambient: 23 degrees Celsius

Night time:  20 degrees Celsius

Heating  Method: Heat pad, infrared basking lamp

Corn Snakes and American Rat Snakes

Hot spot: 25-30 degrees Celsius

Ambient: 23-25 degrees Celsius

Night time: 20 degrees Celsius

Heating Method: Heat pad

King Snakes and Milk Snakes

Hot Spot: 25-30 degrees Celsius

Ambient: 23 -25 degrees Celsius

Night time: 20 degrees Celsius

Heating method: Heat Pad

Ball Python

Hot Spot: 30 degrees Celsius

Ambient: 25 degrees Celsius

Night time: 22-23 degrees Celsius

Heating Method: Heat pad and/or infrared light bulb

Boa Constrictor

Hot spot: 30 degrees Celsius

Ambient: 25 degrees Celsius

Night time: 25 degrees Celsius

Heating Method: Heat pad and/or infrared basking lamp

Taiwanese Rat Snakes and other Tropical Asian Rat Snakes

Hot spot: 30 degrees Celsius

Ambient: 25 degrees Celsius

Night: 22 degrees Celsius

Heating method: Heat pad

Checkered Garter Snake

Hot spot: 25-30 degrees Celsius

Ambient: 22-25 degrees Celsius

Night: only requires night time heating in winter

Heating method: Heat pad

Brown House Snake

Hot spot: 25-30 degrees Celsius

Ambient: 25 degrees Celsius

Night: 20-22 degrees Celsius

Heating method: Heat Pad